Mainely Moose and More
This photo adventure story's ending is more of a personal tragedy rather than the normal humorous events of my other adventure stories. But nonetheless, I felt compelled to write it as it was an adventure that I will remember all too well. The first part of this adventure went very well, giving me many hundreds of images to work on.
The past fall photography trip of 2008 was to meet up with a good friend of mine from Colorado, Weldon Lee. Weldon does photo workshops all over the world and has invited me to some of them. The original trip was to go to Haines, Alaska to photograph eagles, in perhaps in snowy conditions, which would be very hard to do here in South Florida. The airfare ended up being very expensive to Anchorage and so I looked over some of his other workshops and found fall Moose in Maine. That sounded equally as good of a trip to me.
I was born and raised in South Florida and have photographed the Southern Bald eagles here, but as much as I have stomped these backwoods in the last 45 years, I have never, ever come across the first moose. Now, perhaps they were here and I just never saw one... or maybe they just never liked our hot humid weather and migrated north. Whichever the case, I just don't believe there are many of these critters here in Florida. In fact, I have never seen a Florida Panther before either, but that doesn’t mean that they are not here.
I checked the mileage from my place to Millinocket, where we would be staying, and added up the gas cost and I thought that I could drive to Maine, spend the week with Weldon and his group of people and then be able to visit other places, both on the way up and then back to Florida... sounded like a great plan to me. And so the trip was committed.
One of the many locations that Mike Jones suggested was Mt. Washington in New Hampshire as well as the very scenic highway called Kancamagus Hwy. Well, as my luck goes, I arrived at the town of North Woodstock, which was the entrance to Kancamagus Hwy. on a Saturday afternoon.
Crowded driving conditions do not begin to describe what was before me, and that mountaintop that Mike said would be the greatest.....well, as I rounded a curve in the road, the full view of Mt. Washington covered in snow was what I saw. The cars were lined up for over a quarter of a mile trying to get in. I just knew that my spending $20.00 to go up that mountain was not going to get me to the top. I was very sure that the sudden snow caught the road cleaning crews a bit off guard. I just waved good ridings to Mt. Washington and proceeded to meet up with Weldon in Bangor. I finally got into Bangor around 7 pm and met up with Weldon and went to dinner and discussed the next day's plans. Since I had my own vehicle I gladly offered to take one or two of his photo tour people and all their gear with me to the hotel in Millinocket.
So that week went by fairly quickly with hundreds of images captured for me to work on when I got back home. Since Weldon's photo tour was mainly targeted for Moose, which we did have more than enough photo opts, I began looking for other things for my photography. I found several roadside small creeks with lots of small waterfalls and multi-colored leaves on the rocks. These little creeks were perfect settings for Fall shooting. When I should some of Weldon's people the images that I made along the road, they wanted to do the same.
I'm not so sure that Weldon had those types of images in mind for his group but he didn't mind, since we all had great Moose shooting for that week. We had a giant 6 foot wide racked male come into shooting range for 2 full days of shooting. In fact, that bull walked right up to the group to go ashore and up into the woods. I had to resort to a wide-angle lens as he was well within 4 feet away from me at one point.
So after chasing Bullwinkle around in the north woods of Maine for a week, I spent another week at Acadia National Park on the coast of Maine. I arrived at the entrance gate behind many other vehicles, all trying to get into the campground.
I didn't realize that this was Columbus Day weekend and the campground was full. I had my National Park Disabled card out when the woman walked back to me. She initially said that the campground was full, but when she saw my card shed said she would find me a site. Some days you just have all the luck and then other days the luck goes out the window. I got a great site next to the bathroom room with a concrete walkway. However, I had to carefully back up into the site between two very large boulders. I think that they were placed there so as to not drive between them, but I did which was more convenient for the site's table and fire pit. What I didn't know was that the sidewalls of the tires were rubbing against those boulders and by the end of that week I was having tire problems, eventually having to have both of them replaced on the right side. The front tire actually blew out at 60 mph and luckily I was able to pull onto a deserted side road and put on one of those stupid donut tires.
So ... my return routes took me through the backwoods of upstate New York and south to the scenic drive through the Shenandoah National Park and the adjoining Blueridge Parkway National Park. I always stop in at the visitor’s centers to see what's available to photograph. I love waterfalls and the photos on the walls show them in the full water flow conditions of summer. The only problem was this was fall when the water flows are minimal. That generally does not stop me from hiking to at least one or two of them. So I checked a few out and found Dark Hollow falls to be a minimal hike for these tired old bones. Well, the hike was a lot more than I had planned on, and with a weak right knee, let's just say that was not the best decision I made that day.
The knee held up very well, considering all of the hiking for Moose and hiking around the rocky shoreline of Acadia NP. But on this hike, it was swelling up like a tick on an old hound dog after I made it back to the truck. The lighting was terrible, just to add a little salt to the ole open wound, as they say...or someone said that once... I'm sure of it. However, I do manage to come away with some fairly good images nonetheless. I spent the night in another Walmart Residence Inn... and yes! I camp out in their parking lots along with many other campers...can't beat the nightly rates and 24-hour shopping.
After getting coffee bright and early the next morning, I headed south at the entrance to the Blueridge Parkway National Park scenic drive. The ole knee was almost back to near normal size as I headed south on the Blueridge Parkway to find a suitable location for a nice sunrise.
I then headed south and found a gem, for me that is. Next to the visitors center was a relocated farmstead from the very early 1900s. The complete farmstead was donated to the park service by the children of the original builders. Each and every structure was dismantled piece by piece and each part was numbered for reconstruction later by the park service in the mid-1900s. I arrived very early and there was no one around so I set out photographing without having to wait for people to get out of my photos. When I finally fished all of the structures, I heard chickens and saw that there was smoke coming out of the old log cabin's chimney. I went inside and found a very nice couple dressed in the period's clothing. After making several images inside that old cabin I asked the lady if she would pose for me by taking a fire poker and stir the fireplace
That turned out great and reminded me of an earlier image I made of almost the exact same situation in Georgia back in the mid-80s. That B&W image turned out to be a Best in Show and was awarded 1st place and $300.00.
This old log cabin held many beautiful images of a time long ago. Just to imagine taking this old cabin apart and relocating all of the pieces and rebuilding it back as it once was is mind-boggling. One of the very first images that I saw when I stepped into the cabin was this small window that is used to allow fresh air into the cabin when the fireplace is going. There was a shaft of bright sunlight streaming through it with the smoke in the room from the fireplace being illuminated by that window light. I made many images inside this old cabin that morning after the people left. Many people don't realize that wooden floors move when you walk on them. When you have your tripod down and camera set up on it you can really see that effect on the screen. So I had to wait quite a while for everyone to clear out so I could photograph. It was all worth the wait.
After photographing all that morning and into the mid-afternoon at various stops along the parkway, I checked the map for my priority location number three of this trip, and that was Mabry Mill. This famous mill was on my list for years and now it was finally within reach, or so I thought. It was still a long way away, but I decided to just hunker down, make no more stops, and put the peddle to the metal and try to make it before the late afternoon sunlight was gone. Traveling at near light speed, and well over the posted speed limit of 25mph, I finally made it... just as the sun was heading over the mountains, but still in time to get off a few nice frames. Wanting to capture this mill in the morning light, I decided once again to seek the location of the nearest Wal-Mart Residence Inn from my GPS unit so that I could return bright and early the next morning. I wanted to shoot this thing... every-which-way from Sunday.... in fact, it was Sunday. After photographing the mill and surrounding old cabin and blacksmith shop, it was decision time once again.
After resting up a bit in Northern Georgia at my cousin's place, I spent a few days looking for old barns, some waterfalls, and whatever else I could find to fill in with more post-processing when I got back home. I asked Billy where I could find a small waterfall that I didn't need to hike a long way to get to. He said, Helton Falls. I asked was it named after your family...he didn't really know for sure. There were a good number of Helton's in White County. Once again at this time of year, most waterfalls are a mere trickle of what they would be in the summer. This waterfall was no exception and the only real keeper was with using the 100-400 telephoto lens and a real slow shutter speed to capture water in slow motion. It sure didn't look like this in real-time. While driving as many backcountry roads as I could find, I came across this small stream. To enhance the scale of it I used my 10-22 mm lens to get down close to the foreground. This lens is pretty good at accentuating the scale of things with its tremendous depth of field of view. Finding the correct aperture for sharpness from just in front of the lens to near infinity is the key to very sharp images.
I decided that I would top off this trip with a nice colorful sunset with the layers of the Blue Smoky Mountain tops. I chose the highest elevation point in Georgia, Brasstown Bald Mountain Overlook at 4783 FT. elevation. From that point, you can see at least 4 states and numerous mountains top all bathed in that soft blue haze known as the Smoky Mountains. Having never been there I dragged my cousin along with me. The huge parking lot was a bit overwhelming and I had hoped all of those people would clear out and they did. There was a tram that took people up to the top and back but the tram stopped running up at 5 PM. It was 6 and the lot was emptying quickly. We started out walking past this nice paved roadway that the tram took up to the observation point and I thought why not walk up this nice paved road instead of the hiking trail. Other hikers were going up that road, but I reluctantly chose the hiking trail...the one with the large sign indicating that this was a strenuous hiking trail. Well, that was all I needed to see, but the little kids with parents in tow kinda made me feel bad and so we took that damn hiking trail................not the best decision I made that day I might add.
That trail lived up to that stupid sign...it was strenuous all right. For someone with a weak knee, carrying a heavy tripod and two cameras, I began to wonder about this mind-driven sunset photo that I was after. Well, after several stops to rest the knee and body we continued on to the summit... Hell, I'm a flatlander and not used to climbing in high elevations. The hiking trail eventually ended at that same paved roadway the tram takes about 40 feet or so from the summit. I love that term, “Summit”. We don't have many of those in Florida. Straight ahead were some earthen stairs ... of which I had given a great deal of thought about going around them, as had others before me, from the way the ground was worn. But NO!!!… I decided to take the stairs... not the second-best decisions I made that day and the One I now regret with the utmost of passion. The first couple of steps was alright, but the next to the last step was a bit higher and so I mistakenly took it with the weak knee ahead of the good one and attempted to push up............ “Holy Sheep Sh__, Batman". The heavenly gates opened up and angels spoke to me in a way I will remember for the rest of my natural-born days here on earth. The light then went dark; little birds were flying all around me... which were very hard to see through the tears streaming down my cheeks. Then it hit me....."PAIN"... none like I had ever felt before in my life. I swore someone drove a railroad spike through my knee... I couldn't figure out why in the hell they would do that. I spun around and sat down all in one swift motion, grabbing the handrail as if it were my last hope of not going over some cliff. I must have sat there for quite some time. My cousin came back and said, "We're almost there". He also indicated that time was running out... funny... I was thinking the same thing but in a much different way. I faintly remember saying "That's IT".........." I can't go any further ". I can only hope that was all that I may have blurted out. I guess my cousin didn't appreciate me dragging him to the top of this mountain only to hear me say that. Only when he noticed the tears streaming down my face did he realize something very wrong had happened.
After what had seemed like an eternity, I finally managed to get up. I had to use my tripod and the handrail, but could not put any weight on that knee. People were trying to come down those steps and go around me. I muttered some words that didn't make sense to anyone other than me, I’m sure. I managed to get back down to the last step and hard pavement...not sure if I floated down or just how I did it. My cousin would never tell me. Normally I hate carrying tripods, but in this rare case, I loved that damn tripod. I gave my two cameras to my cousin and tried to hobble down that roadway using the tripod to hang onto. It probably looked like a tall crab going sideways with one claw hanging onto this metal contraption. After making some slow progress in my downhill adventure on that paved tram road, I came to a curve in the road, and there was my sunset shot. Not the one I had envisioned, but at least it resembled such. I got one of my cameras back and somehow managed to fire off one frame of the now-infamous “Sunset from Hell”.
The hike back down that road would have probably only have taken about 20 minutes. My hobbling, crab crawling decent getting back down that damn mountain to the parking lot took over an hour and a half. I must have looked like Frankenstein, dragging one leg behind me moaning in pain. It was pitch dark by now...can't see your hand in front of your face. Every rock looked like a black bear. I could just see the newspaper headlines describing all of this. I told my cousin to take my cameras and go on down and move the car closer to the gate. I'm sure he would have never seen all of the bears I saw that long night.
After a couple of days at my cousin's house of alternating between frozen bags of peas and whatever else was in his freezer, placing them on the knee trying to get the swelling down, I managed enough energy to endure the ten-hour drive south to Florida... good thing for cruise control. This was not the happy ending that I planned for, which was initially a pretty good 30-day photography trip.
When I was finally able to drive back home and see my orthopedic surgeon, my worst fears were brought to light. The knee was a goner, kaput, nada, and never again going to be my right-hand man. A new knee replacement was the next major chapter in my life, but that was not going to happen until January, and here it was the last week of October. My surgeon assured me that 95% of these kinds of surgeries go without any complications. That was somewhat reassuring, but I was wondering about that other damn 2%. I didn't what to know at this point, but I was soon going to find out firsthand.
This 30-day photographing trip to many points north has given me some very good images and another 30-minute digital slide program to present. So I have to be thankful for that.
This adventure story was updated on October 1, 2020
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